Indian food is my absolute favorite of all the world's cuisines. I lived on South Indian vegetarian buffets and splurged on Mughal feasts as a college student in New York City, and to this day will stop at taxicab takeout spots in Manhattan for Styrofoam containers of fiercely authentic stews. We served curry at my wedding 15 years ago, and I consumed so much dhal on a monthlong trip to India that my husband feared I would turn into a lentil.
I say all this by way of explaining why I am so thrilled about Coconut Grove's new Bombay Darbar, which sprang from the ashes of the beloved Anokha (and the subsequent fondue spot and pizza place) in a chickpea-size space on Commodore Plaza.
The 20-something-seat dining room falls somewhere between red-velvet regal and Slum Dog casual, with white table linens, fresh roses and vinyl-coated menus. There's gentle, tinkling music, authentic if slightly wooze-inducing incense and, for better weather, a petite patio.